Thanks to my friends Pilar, Maria and Teresa, I've had a tour of Maria's avocado orchard and seen a custard apple orchard in absolute prime location in the middle of Almunecar (much to the disgust of local developers)!
Nasrid Palaces and Alcazaba
The Alhambra lives up to it's reputation. Although I doubt photographs can do it justice.
Also, a major disappointment was that one of the top 2 attractions (first or second depending who you believe), the Courtyard of Lions, was completely excavated for restoration.
Camino de Subbetica
Today I walked the Carcabuey to Los Villares section of this Camino, also called "La Via Verde". Subbetica is the most southern section of the Province of Cordoba and produces some of the finest olive oil in the world.
In the photos you will see how old the olives are by their gnarled trunks, how stoney the ground is and an example of the spring water that seeps up everywhere in the valleys and is probably pumped up the hills to irrigate when necessary. Perfect conditions for mediterranean crops and the perfect "bush-walk" for a fruit tree fanatic.
In the photos you will see how old the olives are by their gnarled trunks, how stoney the ground is and an example of the spring water that seeps up everywhere in the valleys and is probably pumped up the hills to irrigate when necessary. Perfect conditions for mediterranean crops and the perfect "bush-walk" for a fruit tree fanatic.
No Caballos hoy. Manyana.
This weekend, the Spaniards destroyed my precision itinerary.
Firstly both my Plan A and B day tours to Donana and Ronda were cancelled. Never mind, I consoled myself this morning, I'm going to Jerez, the home of sherry and the Andalusian horse, and the opening day of the famous horse festival.
Unfortunately Tio Pepe tastes like dry dishwater and none of the relevant websites bother to mention horses do not make an appearance at the horse festival until the 2nd day.
Symbolically at the maker of Tio Pepe, Gonzalez Byass, you are welcomed in plush surrounds then walk yourself through a exit turnstile into a derelict abandoned plaza with no street signs or directions whatsoever.
My consolation at the Feria de Caballo was the best paella thus far.
Whatever I might think of bull fighting, at least they honour bulls of particular ferocity. On the outside of the Jerez bullring, there is a gallery of gallant bulls that put on a "good show" or even drew blood, with names matching the qualities they displayed. I think one of those shown below translates as "subversive" so presumably he was cunning.
I've been hearing very good things about Cordoba and Granada, so I'm looking forward to the next 11 days.
Firstly both my Plan A and B day tours to Donana and Ronda were cancelled. Never mind, I consoled myself this morning, I'm going to Jerez, the home of sherry and the Andalusian horse, and the opening day of the famous horse festival.
Unfortunately Tio Pepe tastes like dry dishwater and none of the relevant websites bother to mention horses do not make an appearance at the horse festival until the 2nd day.
Symbolically at the maker of Tio Pepe, Gonzalez Byass, you are welcomed in plush surrounds then walk yourself through a exit turnstile into a derelict abandoned plaza with no street signs or directions whatsoever.
My consolation at the Feria de Caballo was the best paella thus far.
Whatever I might think of bull fighting, at least they honour bulls of particular ferocity. On the outside of the Jerez bullring, there is a gallery of gallant bulls that put on a "good show" or even drew blood, with names matching the qualities they displayed. I think one of those shown below translates as "subversive" so presumably he was cunning.
I've been hearing very good things about Cordoba and Granada, so I'm looking forward to the next 11 days.
Labour Day, Passive Smoking and The Museum of Ham
Most non party people would agree that the clear highlight in Madrid is the Prado. Comparable to the Louvre and Uffizi in terms of collection of paintings but of course unique. It's only closed a few days of the year and unfortunately for me, Labour Day is one of them and I'm off to Seville now. I will have to make a rushed visit on my way to the Madrid airport on my last day.
So instead I wandered throughout the parks, gardens and historical centre all day. Photos show the rose garden "La Rosaleda"and Palacio de Cristal in the massive Parque del Buen Retiro and Plaza Mayor.
It is a city of alley ways packed with small cafes and unlike some writers, I think it is as attractive and charming to walkers as any capital. There is however no escaping tobacco smoke here (except in parks and gardens fortunately).
Finally, as an indication of just how much the Spaniard loves ham "jamon", I've included a photo of it's "Museum", a deli and standup restaurant so packed I had to forgo the mouth watering waft of paella and head elsewhere.
So instead I wandered throughout the parks, gardens and historical centre all day. Photos show the rose garden "La Rosaleda"and Palacio de Cristal in the massive Parque del Buen Retiro and Plaza Mayor.
It is a city of alley ways packed with small cafes and unlike some writers, I think it is as attractive and charming to walkers as any capital. There is however no escaping tobacco smoke here (except in parks and gardens fortunately).
Finally, as an indication of just how much the Spaniard loves ham "jamon", I've included a photo of it's "Museum", a deli and standup restaurant so packed I had to forgo the mouth watering waft of paella and head elsewhere.
Madrid
I´ve arrived in Madrid, having experienced 5star (Economy) treatment from Qatar Airlines to Doha. I received goodies including organic quinoa, chocolate and raspberry muffins while others fed on their glutinous croissants.
Doha Airport was a different matter; herded into a room immediately off the tarmac with about 1000 other passengers to see only 4 security scanners. Not good when boarding time for my Madrid connection was already wrapping up somewhere ahead of me. First time I enjoyed the experience of holding up a plane full of people (in this case angry Madrilenos for 90 minutes!).
The underground Metro in Madrid is superb, getting me from Barajas Airport to the door of Preciados Hotel in 45 minutes. After sleeping off some jet-lag I wandered down Gran Via at 1:30am (since everyone else seemed to be doing the same) and after being approached by an overly friendly girl and then getting a slightly uneasy feeling about a guy doing a u-turn and walking behind me, retraced my steps and instead headed down Calle de Preciados to Peurta del Sol which had a much friendlier vibe.
Found a little i-cafe right near my hotel on the way back and now it´s 3am which is about the right time to got to bed here.
Adios.
Doha Airport was a different matter; herded into a room immediately off the tarmac with about 1000 other passengers to see only 4 security scanners. Not good when boarding time for my Madrid connection was already wrapping up somewhere ahead of me. First time I enjoyed the experience of holding up a plane full of people (in this case angry Madrilenos for 90 minutes!).
The underground Metro in Madrid is superb, getting me from Barajas Airport to the door of Preciados Hotel in 45 minutes. After sleeping off some jet-lag I wandered down Gran Via at 1:30am (since everyone else seemed to be doing the same) and after being approached by an overly friendly girl and then getting a slightly uneasy feeling about a guy doing a u-turn and walking behind me, retraced my steps and instead headed down Calle de Preciados to Peurta del Sol which had a much friendlier vibe.
Found a little i-cafe right near my hotel on the way back and now it´s 3am which is about the right time to got to bed here.
Adios.
First Step : Learn the language
Habla Castellano? Well no, but maybe, for the first time, I will actually finish a term of language lessons that I start.
I hope for some Spanish comments on my blog before, and certainly during, my trip to Spain in May.
Adios for now
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